Precision Spinning Tops

Spinny-Doo is a precision rendition of the world's oldest toy, the spinning top. Spinning Tops are mesmerizing, fun, and educational. Not just enjoyed by kids, adults too find spinning tops to be a great ornamental desk toy, a stress-relief outlet, and enjoy spinning them while on the phone, thinking, or relaxing.

Spinny-Doo Precision Spinning Tops are designed for the spinning top connoisseur who demands high performance and long spin time, but they are also elegant with smooth proportional curves, and give a very satisfactory sense of high quality.

Precision Means Performance

Being a precision made product, the Spinny-Doo Precision Spinning Top production proceses is strictly controlled to ensure every Spinny-Doo meets our high standards. You can expect your Spinny-Doo Precision spinning top to give you long spin times easily up to seven minutes, and with a practiced spin, spin times can be well over seven minutes. The current world record for a Spinny-Doo spinning top is 9 minutes 55 seconds!

We claim Spinny-Doo Precision Spinning Tops will Spin Around the Seven Minute Mark. Our packaging says up to seven minutes, but evidence shows over seven minutes. As you can see from customer contributed videos, our performance is proven. Our tops aren't designed to merely look good, they are designed to perform exceptionally well. Who wants a top that just looks good? Why not get one that looks good and actually spins well! You can have both with Spinny-Doo Precision Spinning Tops.

Quality Precision Spinning Tops

We take pride and care to ensure every precision spinning top meets our strict quality standards. Each precision spinning top you receive is evaluated for both performance and asthetic qualities. We would rather scrap a spinning top than sell an inferior product.

Spinny-Doo Precision Spinning Tops are World-Famous

We have been providing Spinny-Doo brand precision spinning tops to customers all over the world for nearly six years and have a substantial following of extremely happy customers. We frequently get emails from our customers telling us just how much they love their new spinning tops, and and very often get new customers who heard about us by word of mouth.

Spinny-Doo Precision Spinning Tops For Your Desk - Executive Desk Toys

Spinny-Doo is visually very elegant and proportionally designed - an excellent ornamental addition to your elegant pen, lamp, and ornamental picture frame. Our customers tell us how the Spinny-Doo on their desk never sits still. People are always coming by to give it a spin and see how long it goes.

Spinny-Doo Precision Spinning Tops For Fidgeting

While not strictly a fidget toy, Spinny-Doo Precision Spinning Tops are for fidgeters. There's nothing more satisfying than spinning a Spinny-Doo while on the phone, thinking, or relaxing. Your colleagues will start showing up at your desk more often just to get a chance to play with your precision spinning top. Don't be surprised if you don't get your Spinny-Doo back again!

Spinny-Doo Precision Spinning Tops Are Toys For All Ages

Yes, Spinny-Doo Precision Spinning Tops are Toys. But that doesn't mean it must be for kids! We find that men between the ages of 18 ~ 55 find Spinny-Doo Precision Spinning Tops incredible to watch and play with because they appreciate the underlying physics of spinning tops and know that beyond the simple exterior lies complex mathematics that explain how the gyroscopic effect of spinning tops defies gravity and stabilizes them during their spins. Kids learn the principles of gyroscopic motion and precession all the while having fun seeing who can spin theirs the longest.

Spinny-Doo Spinning Tops Are Made in Canada

Spinny-Doo Spinning Tops are Proudly and Exclusively Made in Canada. Spinny-Doo is a small private family owned business run by one man, yet "we" still speak in the general plural corporate entity sense because it sounds better for marketing ;-) Here, "we" design, manaufacture, package, ship, market, draw, and dream about Spinny-Doo Precision Spinning Tops. We do all this right here in Canada, and we're very proud to say our products are "Made in Canada"

Spinny-Doo Spinning Tops Make Perfect Gifts for Men. Gifts for Him

Buy a Spinny-Doo Precision Spinning Top Online Today and give the gift of spinny-doo precision spinning tops to a friend, loved one, colleague, or give them out as prizes or tokens of appreciation from an employer to an employee. They also can be marked with a corporate logo or slogan and given out as a marketing tool or marketing gift. Spinny-Doo precision spinning tops are high-quality, elegant products that make gift-giving so easy.

Spinny-Doo Spinning Tops are Great Christmas Gifts Ideas

Christmas is just around the corner! Buy a Spinny-Doo Precision Spinning Top Online Today as a Christmas Gift (even a belated Christmas Gift)

Metal Lens #2 and Fly Cutter Build

I figured the outcome from this experiment would be the same as the first one, but I was begging for an excuse to build myself a bigger fly-cutter. So before I could start milling a concave surface into the other side of the metal block from part 1, I set out to build a tool that could give me a minimum 100mm diameter cut.

A fly cutter is a very simple single-point rotating cutter used to mill surfaces flat. While any end mill when passed back and forth over the same area will remove the same material, a fly cutter (with the proper diameter) can take the whole thing in one pass leaving a nice milled surface. I already have a 3" face cutter but wanted something larger. Something that would go up to maybe 6 ~ 8 inches.

So here is the other side of the lens you saw in the previous post. 4" diam, 4140 HT steel. I centered it on my 4-jaw in the tilting/rotary (TR) table and will set this at 2.5 degrees.

Raw material on the tilting/rotary table

To cut this metal into a lens shape, I need to angle the table so that a cutter rotating in the XY plane scoops out the metal. As one rotates the table axis 360 degrees, the scooping cutter will carve out a concave surface.

The intersection of a 100mm circle (the cutter) with the workpiece at 2.5 degrees gives me the approximate 1000m radius of curvature I'm looking for. I calculated this in CAD, but ended up ballparking the cutting radius. Close enough. Here's a simple drawing to illustrate

Angled intersecting circular planes

* If you are exactly on center

But first, I need the cutter!

I looked at my existing tools, but all I have is a precision boring tool and those cheap boring bars that don't have enough clearance

Boring tool with little bar

So with a 1" collet, I thought I would mill myself a holder out of a 3" piece of 4140 HT

 3" 4140 with HSS too bit

But then I remembered this weird tool I had lying around for ages. Don't know what it's original purpose was, but it's just collecting dust so I decided to re-purpose it. Was it someone else's stalled fly-cutter project?

Tool whose purpose is unknown

I turned it down from 4.5 inches to 3.5". I wanted a large cutter, but didn't want a big gap between my 3" and this new one. It turned pretty nicely, so I'm guessing this is a prehard-steel as well by the way it produced chips and how it took on a shiny finish with heavy cuts, just like 4140.

Turning down the tool

So I remounted this platen into the 4-jaw and milled a 7.5 degree taper into the piece.

Setting fly cutter body at 7.5 degrees

Nearly done. I was worried that I'd rip the flycutter body out from the tiny AEG low-profile 4-jaw, so I took 1/4 x 1/4 passes with a 5/8 endmill.

Nearly done milling the fly cutter's angled bottom

Using a smaller 7/16 endmill, I milled the slot for the HSS toolbit. Despite watching This Old Tony's Flycutter video and hearing his concerns about the placement of the slot, I still lost track in the details and put it on the wrong side. Thanks for jinxing me, Tony. Now I have to fly-cut in reverse for the positive angle approach he mentioned, though I think it's less critical than the positive rake normal to the plane of rotation, so whatever. Proof will be in the pudding.

I went in at ~ 1/8 per pass to 1/2" depth, stepped +X to clean up the wall, then stepped left until the slot matched my 1/2" HSS toolbit.

Milling slot in flycutter body for HSS tool bit

Once the second side was cleaned up, the toolbit slipped in perfectly with no gap at all.

1/2 HSS toolbit with very tight slip fit

Next is to mill the side for the set-screw clearance. I wanted enough meat so I could really crank down the screws.

Milling screw flat clearance

Without taking it out of the TR table (one of the benefits of having such a table, which I paid a fortune for) is that I need only rotate the chuck 90 degrees and lean it over to start spotting and drilling the set-screw holes.

Spot-drilling the center holding screw for a fly-cutter

What you don't see here is the incredibly awkward setup. My TR table is on the left side with the cables protruding from the front, meaning I must look behind my machine to see what I'm doing. PITA! I'll swap my TR table and the Kurt vise one of these days...

Drilling through

I drilled three holes at 1" centers and picked up on the tapered surface with a 0.200 touch-off tool, then dialed back .350 (1/4" + 0.1) to hit center.

Naturally, I had all the wrong fasteners and taps, but finally found a super-sharp M6 Dormer tap that cut this steel like ... not butter, but more like carving a carrot. It has this certain crisp cutting feel that lets you know it's going well. I am perpetually paranoid about breaking off small taps. Want broken taps? Buy your taps from Canadian Tire/Harbor Freight. Want to slice through steel effortlessly? Get Dormer or Union Butterfield. Don't skimp on taps - especially the small ones.

Tapping with Dormer M6

Use plenty of oil and back out completely every so often to clear chips. I'll have to get myself some spiral taps one day, but it came out perfectly all the same.

Perfectly tapped M6 holes on 1" centers

And like a dolt, I forgot to take pictures of 

  • hand-filing to break corners.
  • countersinking screw holes
  • grinding the HSS toolbit for 7-degree clearance front and bottom
  • marking the cutter body with a centerline so I can measure offset of the cutter
  • inserting the HSS toolbit and fastening with M6 socket-head screws (all I had on hand at the time)

But here's the first attempt. I centered the spindle and table axis, then stepped Y+ 50mm to put the cutter on center with the workpiece. If you go too little or too far, you get a nub in the center. This is where the results are identical to using a lathe. In the future, if I end up making metal lenses, I'll use the lathe instead. Easier. Much safer.

The first pass was with the workpiece at zero angle. I wanted to shave off the high spots before attempting a concave pass. Not much to see here except you might notice the lettering disappearing around the edges.

Facing with the new fly cutter

When I angled the workpiece and took a skim-pass, it cut initially then wore away the grind on the chinesium toolbit. I'm not even sure it's HSS.

Angled cut skim pass

HSS toolbit already?

So instead I put in an old right-hand brazed toolbit I was lucky enough to have lying around, but had to now spin the fly-cutter clockwise (looking down at the table.)

1/2" Brazed toolbit in the fly-cutter

The first pass worked out very nicely. It left a little nub, so I brought Y back over center to get rid of it, then started cranking the C axis.

First pass of concave cut with new fly-cutter

Dropping Z by another 0.01", I took a second pass that cleaned up the surface very nicely. Step over is too high because I was using the pendant to rotate the C-axis at 10-though per pulse.

Results from concave cut with fly-cutter

Straight edge to show curvature of cut

So this curve is much shallower because I had to extend the cutter to 150mm diameter to clear the cutter body, and the nub still isn't completely removed.

But hey, now I have a fly cutter! Not bad for a couple of hours of fun in the shop!

Fly-cutter and concave surface

Until next time. Keep spinning!

Torin...

 

 

 

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